The Editor enjoys some food and wine at the Holden Manz Franschhoek Kitchen | The Month May 2012
“I made Kate Moss eat” reads part of the Twitter bio of Chef Cheyne Morrisby, the new man in charge of the Franschhoek Kitchen at the Holden Manz wine estate. Anyone prepared to share a claim like that, deserves a little attention.
So it was with pleasure that I accepted an opportunity recently to join Cheyne at the Franschhoek Kitchen to enjoy one of the Holden Manz “Winemakers’ Dinners” and a night’s stay over at the Holden Manz 5-star Country House – lest the winemakers got me to drink the way Cheyne got Kate to eat. The dinners are a relaxed affair and generally see the chef pair four dishes to each of the four wines presented, by four different winemakers, on the night.
The theme of the evening was ‘Shiraz’ and after a little bubbly upon
arrival and some convivial chatter on the restaurant terrace that overlooks a vineyard or two in the direction of the Guest House, we took our seats to put both winemakers and chef to the test.
A 2009 Eagle’s Nest Shiraz was paired with Venison tataki, a grape and onion marmalade and goats cheese. The white pepper, evident on the nose of the Shiraz, and the dark red berry flavours that follow were made all the fresher and cleaner thanks to the venison and, as introductions go, I can’t imagine many being better.
With plates cleared and another round of wines poured, this time the Mullineux Syrah 2010, it was clear that, at our table at least, diners were gearing up for a good time. That three of the four winemakers happened to be our table companions and that the gentleman and his wife opposite me were authentic French wine farm owners from Champagne, certainly helped. Not that any of the other tables seemed lacking in characters!
The Mullineux Syrah 2010 is more smoky black pepper than white, yet exhibits an almost Fynbos-like scent; it’s a seriously attractive wine and was my favourite of the night. For this wine Cheyne produced an Asian mushroom medley with a puff pastry square and deep fried coconut milk. The latter had us tasting, re-tasting and deliberating for long enough to call for a top-up of our wine and conclude that the pairing had resulted in a hung jury.
The main course for the evening was a Rack of Lamb, wasabi cream potatoes and a pomegranate and ginger glaze. Glancing down at the menu I saw that the lamb had been paired with the Holden Manz Shiraz 2008. Looking up I caught the eye of Schalk Opperman, the Holden Manz winemaker. “This is an eighty-rand bottle of wine,” I said rather bluntly, “and you think it’ll carry main better than any of the others that go in the two-hundred-plus category?” Schalk laughed nervously. “I haven’t had the dish that Cheyne’s going to serve, but I trust him,” he responded, still nervously. “And if he’s wrong,” he continued, “I can always say I didn’t make this wine!”
The pairing of the succulent lamb, with all the intense flavours brought to the plate by the rich accompanying miso jus, surprised all at our table. “Pity you can’t take credit for the wine, hey Schalk,” teased one of the other winemakers, as he managed to wangle a top-up. The ripe fruit flavours of the 2008 Holden Manz Shiraz are balanced by strong savoury characteristics and a full, soft mouth feel – it was perfect with the lamb and a bit of kick in the pants for those of us who tend to shop according to price.
A dessert of Blue Cheese Cheesecake with fig tempura and toasted sesame brittle completed the evening’s line-up and was paired with a recently bottled 2009 AA Badenhorst Shiraz/Mourvedre/Grenache/Cinsault. Despite not yet settling fully in the bottle, the wine’s obvious pedigree was already in evidence with a pepper and perfume nose and overt black cherry flavours. The wine’s dry yet flavourful finish made it a perfect partner to the not too-sweet cheesecake.
As those of us who weren’t heading off home across the Winelands lingered to enjoy coffee and the tranquillity of the evening outside, I thought back to my high school physics lessons involving chain reactions. Funny that we were never taught that there are some chain reactions that simply lead to smiles.
The next Winemakers’ Dinner takes place on Wednesday the 16th of May and features Merlot. See the ad below for contact details.
Holden Manz presently has a special rate on accommodation at their Country House, and from May to the end of July, the Winter Secret package is only R995 per person per night. The picturesque setting just outside Franschhoek, amidst fruit orchards and vines, is secluded enough to offer peace and complete privacy, but not that far removed from everything to leave you feeling isolated.
The Country House features some exquisite art pieces, a beautiful courtyard koi pond, comfortable rooms with private outdoor seating and the best breakfast and service I have experienced in a long time. The attentive staff had me feeling at home from the moment I entered the front door and the additional offering of the adjacent spa, the Franschhoek Kitchen or a picnic on the banks of the Franschhoek River close by, make this a must-do for anyone intent on experiencing the best that the Winelands has to offer.
Phone 021 876 2738 or e-mail collette@holdenmanz.com for bookings.
So it was with pleasure that I accepted an opportunity recently to join Cheyne at the Franschhoek Kitchen to enjoy one of the Holden Manz “Winemakers’ Dinners” and a night’s stay over at the Holden Manz 5-star Country House – lest the winemakers got me to drink the way Cheyne got Kate to eat. The dinners are a relaxed affair and generally see the chef pair four dishes to each of the four wines presented, by four different winemakers, on the night.
The theme of the evening was ‘Shiraz’ and after a little bubbly upon
arrival and some convivial chatter on the restaurant terrace that overlooks a vineyard or two in the direction of the Guest House, we took our seats to put both winemakers and chef to the test.
A 2009 Eagle’s Nest Shiraz was paired with Venison tataki, a grape and onion marmalade and goats cheese. The white pepper, evident on the nose of the Shiraz, and the dark red berry flavours that follow were made all the fresher and cleaner thanks to the venison and, as introductions go, I can’t imagine many being better.
With plates cleared and another round of wines poured, this time the Mullineux Syrah 2010, it was clear that, at our table at least, diners were gearing up for a good time. That three of the four winemakers happened to be our table companions and that the gentleman and his wife opposite me were authentic French wine farm owners from Champagne, certainly helped. Not that any of the other tables seemed lacking in characters!
The Mullineux Syrah 2010 is more smoky black pepper than white, yet exhibits an almost Fynbos-like scent; it’s a seriously attractive wine and was my favourite of the night. For this wine Cheyne produced an Asian mushroom medley with a puff pastry square and deep fried coconut milk. The latter had us tasting, re-tasting and deliberating for long enough to call for a top-up of our wine and conclude that the pairing had resulted in a hung jury.
The main course for the evening was a Rack of Lamb, wasabi cream potatoes and a pomegranate and ginger glaze. Glancing down at the menu I saw that the lamb had been paired with the Holden Manz Shiraz 2008. Looking up I caught the eye of Schalk Opperman, the Holden Manz winemaker. “This is an eighty-rand bottle of wine,” I said rather bluntly, “and you think it’ll carry main better than any of the others that go in the two-hundred-plus category?” Schalk laughed nervously. “I haven’t had the dish that Cheyne’s going to serve, but I trust him,” he responded, still nervously. “And if he’s wrong,” he continued, “I can always say I didn’t make this wine!”
The pairing of the succulent lamb, with all the intense flavours brought to the plate by the rich accompanying miso jus, surprised all at our table. “Pity you can’t take credit for the wine, hey Schalk,” teased one of the other winemakers, as he managed to wangle a top-up. The ripe fruit flavours of the 2008 Holden Manz Shiraz are balanced by strong savoury characteristics and a full, soft mouth feel – it was perfect with the lamb and a bit of kick in the pants for those of us who tend to shop according to price.
A dessert of Blue Cheese Cheesecake with fig tempura and toasted sesame brittle completed the evening’s line-up and was paired with a recently bottled 2009 AA Badenhorst Shiraz/Mourvedre/Grenache/Cinsault. Despite not yet settling fully in the bottle, the wine’s obvious pedigree was already in evidence with a pepper and perfume nose and overt black cherry flavours. The wine’s dry yet flavourful finish made it a perfect partner to the not too-sweet cheesecake.
As those of us who weren’t heading off home across the Winelands lingered to enjoy coffee and the tranquillity of the evening outside, I thought back to my high school physics lessons involving chain reactions. Funny that we were never taught that there are some chain reactions that simply lead to smiles.
The next Winemakers’ Dinner takes place on Wednesday the 16th of May and features Merlot. See the ad below for contact details.
The Country House features some exquisite art pieces, a beautiful courtyard koi pond, comfortable rooms with private outdoor seating and the best breakfast and service I have experienced in a long time. The attentive staff had me feeling at home from the moment I entered the front door and the additional offering of the adjacent spa, the Franschhoek Kitchen or a picnic on the banks of the Franschhoek River close by, make this a must-do for anyone intent on experiencing the best that the Winelands has to offer.
Phone 021 876 2738 or e-mail collette@holdenmanz.com for bookings.
