The Editor lets the wine go to his head with six of the best | The Month May 2012

“But why bother introducing unusual varieties to a market that’s happy with the status quo?” I asked Bovlei wine maker and cellar master, Frank Meaker, at a recent tasting of the ridiculously well-priced Mad Hatters range at the cellar outside Wellington.

My question wasn’t meant to throw a spanner in the works, or be in any way disrespectful of the man or the Mad Hatters range, which comprises six unusual (in the South African context) varietal wines and that at less than R40 a bottle. It’s just that selling wine at less than 40 bucks a pop sits uncomfortably with me and who on earth is likely to sacrifice buying a sure-fire Shiraz for a confusing Carignan, even at that price? Most of us just don’t know enough about wine to want to take the risk.

As the words left my mouth I was struck by the brief, but palpable silence that followed. Frank stole a
glance at Herman le Roux, Bovlei’s general manager and the man who no doubt has to answer to the owners when the end of year figures are less attractive than the hues of Bovlei’s Pinotage Rosé, before answering passionately that making wine is more about passion than it is a pension. Yes, R40 is a steal; but each of the varieties deserves recognition and has something to offer consumers across the board and rather than be a follower, Frank wants Bovlei to lead the market with the introduction of these varieties as mainstream varietal options. “And of course,” he added, now happy to throw, rather than steal, a glance at Herman, “if you’re the first to do it, you’re seen as the obvious choice once the idea catches on; I’m sure the investment will pay off.”

With an over delivering 2011 Rousanne / Grenache Blanc in hand, I saluted Frank’s passion and skill and acknowledged the sense of his matter-of-fact conclusion, if you choose not to at least try all of these wines, you’re as mad as a hatter!

Mad Hatters’ Rousanne / Grenache Blanc 2011, R30*
The marketing blurb sums this wine up perfectly as a “complete” wine incorporating the “sensual flavours and exquisite fragrance” of Rousanne and the “bracing grip” of the Grenache. The French Cloche hat on the bottle suggests a playful yet stylish wine. What impressed me most is the full mouthfeel and the wine’s ability to drink well on its own or with food. My first thoughts were light meat with some sort of citrusy gravy or even a little spice. If you’re not sure what to take to your next dinner party – take this.

Mad Hatters’ Malbec  2010, R30*
The Mad Hatters’ Malbec is probably the easiest of the less common red varieties to try first up, as it’s a lot like Merlot and often used in Bordeaux blends, which will mean that many South African palates will already have an affinity for it. Originally from France, I was surprised to see an Argentine Gaucho Hat on the Malbec lable - until I learnt that leading cowboy expert, Prof Richard Slatta is on record as saying the Gauchos were as proud and honest as they were fierce when provoked. Talk about a wine to keep for a special occasion! Think ripe plums and tobacco on the nose and in the mouth with a soft finish to get your taste buds screaming for more.

Mad Hatters’ Mourvèdre 2010, R30*
Of the range, this was the stand-out for me on the day. It’s an oaky, smoky wine with an intense deep purple colour, loads of fruit flavours and a finish that belies the price-tag. Wearing a Spanish Flamenco hat, it’s as ballsy as a matador - with 15% alcohol, lest you should fail to notice the hat. A decent Karoo Lamb stew, something with rosemary or a just-done pork fillet on the braai would all enjoy its elegant company.

Mad Hatters’ Sangiovese 2010, R30*
Sangiovese gets its name from ‘sanguis Jovis’ – the blood of Jupiter and the jovis part also forms the root of the word ‘jovial’. The Italian wearing a boater on the lable is a bit of a give-away that this variety has a strong connection to Lo Stivale, where it is the most planted red grape, and certainly highlights its more playful side. Given that Sangiovese vines are pretty adaptable and really enjoy limestone-rich soils, I’m sure we’ll see many more varietal expressions of the grape as wine makers take up the challenge of paying the variety a little more attention. Think herbs and buchu with a distinct rush of violets on the nose, dark fruit and dusty notes on the palate and a confident finish. Rather unsurprisingly, it’ll go with most things Italian.

Mad Hatters’ Barbera 2010, R30*
Another Italian variety, this time wearing a Fedora, the Barbera is an easy-drinking red that is probably best with a slightly sweeter savoury dish or one in which just a couple of clean flavours dominate. The flavours are muted and distinctly red – though on the fresh side, rather than the sweet.

Mad Hatters’ Carignan 2010, R30*
The Oxford Companion to Wine describes Carignan as “the bane of the European wine industry”. It’s a grape that needs lots of attention to stay disease free and tends to result in ‘rough’ wines that aren’t known to age particularly well. But restrict the yields and try not to baby the vines and you’re onto leathery-berry-savoury notes that display the caprice of youth, without the petulance. Pair this wine with a decent steak burger and chips or anything chosen by the Onion Johnny in his beret shown on the bottle.

My tasting concluded with a re-visit of the Rousanne / Grenache Blanc, some serious banter about the Bulls and Stormers and a commitment to work my way through a complimentary mixed case of the Mad Hatters’ wines, courtesy of the Cellar. Hats off to Bovlei!

*All wines reviewed are R30 per bottle when bought in a mixed case of six, for R180, from the Cellar.