The Editor discovers a whole new side to moonshine, thanks to Avondale | The Month July 2012

Every now and then I get a press release that gets my goat, and here’s part of one that did just that, recently:

Avondale Wine Estate, in conjunction with Platter’s South African Wine Guide, held the fourth and final tasting of its Luna Taste Test project last Thursday 24th May at Dear Me in Cape Town.

The project, which tested the validity of the biodynamic calendar developed in the 1950s by Maria Thun, was attended by a panel of Cape Town’s top wine aficionados. The experiment aimed to identify whether there was any truth in the theory that the taste of wine will vary depending on which time of the month it is consumed. According to the lunar calendar, there are four specific cycles; namely fruit, root, flower and leaf - with the fruit and flower cycles generally being regarded as the more favourable days for wine tasting. The panellists were to taste Avondale’s range of nature-friendly wines in four separate tastings and across four tasting cycles to ascertain whether there was any merit to this concept.

It’s not that I don’t like Avondale – on the contrary, their wines rate among my favourites; and it’s not that I don’t like the particular PR person that sent it to me – she’s gorgeous; it’s just that getting the verdict of “Cape Town’s top wine aficionados”, when said group did not include me, is a bit like being the first ‘Survivor’ contestant to sit on the judging panel when all that matters is winning…

“Think wine off the duck’s back, Ed,” said my
Publisher, showing as much sympathy as I’ve ever seen from him; and more money, as he gave me fifty rand and suggested I get “a few bottles” to conduct my own experiment.

The fifty rand paid for coffee and a call to Avondale’s Johnathan Grieve who graciously agreed to an interview to answer some of the questions raised by the press release.

Turns out the seven panellists tasted the same Avondale wines (but from freshly opened bottles each time) over the course of four tastings, that spanned eleven days and each of the cycles within the lunar calendar: fruit, root, flower and leaf. They were not told which cycle they were in at any given tasting and simply got to drink the wines and share their thoughts on scent and flavour.

Most telling was the feedback that the panellists, despite being a rather diverse group, were all in agreement as to the dominant characteristics at each tasting.

According to Johnathan the ‘fruit tasting’ cycle was a hit and the fruit notes were described by panellists as “almost overpowering”. The ‘leaf tasting’ left the wines “less sweet, with a dominant minerality,” and many of the panellists found it hard to believe that they were tasting the same wines (and that just a couple of days after having conducted the ‘fruit tasting’).

The ‘root tasting’ cycle turned out to be the “worst of the lot” said Johnathan – not that the wines tasted bad, it was just that by comparison they really came across as subdued and closed and in the words of the panel, the wines had “gone to sleep”.

By contrast the ‘flower tasting’ day was characterised by terms such as “expressive”, “elegant” and “more structured with a fresh, fuller-bodied character.” Johnathan’s advice is simple, choose your wine carefully and, where possible, opt for a fruit or flower day to really enjoy the wine. And if you’re going to drink on a root day, choose a wine with enough depth of flavour and complexity to ensure that the experience isn’t one you’ll regret.

Given that I’m sold on the idea of biodynamic farming, the thought of the cosmos having an impact on the intrinsic flavours in wine doesn’t scare me, but it is still a new-enough concept to leave me feeling a little bemused and curious. To test the idea that wine tastes different on different days within the lunar cycle I got Johnathan to give me four dates of my own, but not to share the nature of the days and promised to share my experience in The Month, should there be any merit - and here it is! See table below for the results.

Wine: Pax Verbatim Blazing Hill Syrah 2008

According to SAWinesOnline.co.uk: “This wine offers subtle and perfumed aromas of coffee, mocha and spice. On the palate, an exquisitely balanced, soft and silky texture belies a wine with deceiving yet tremendous depth. Structured, yet deliciously smooth, the senses are treated to flavours reminiscent of black berries, loganberries, and wild plum.”

Date
18th June
20th June
22nd June
23rd June
Cycle
Root
Flower
Leaf
Fruit
Selected comments
Hints of dark fruit and greenish notes on the nose; metallic components on the palate
More intense flavours and fruit on the nose; orange peel flavours; wine went very well with food
Forest floor on the nose; hints of spice and subtle fruit flavours; firm tannin and hints of pepper
Lots of ripe fruit on the nose; well-balanced with good structure; not dry
Rating
Most enjoyable
Not great
Really didn’t enjoy
Good
Verdict
Without labelling the wine ‘good’ or ‘bad’, the panel – which included knowledgeable and less-knowledgeable members - felt that the wine certainly showed different components over the week that suggested some correlation with the concept of the Luna Tasting and that more hands-on investigation is in order…

As a follow-up I’ll be conducting a Twitterview with Avondale on Wednesday the 4th of July at 2pm, to answer the question: “Does the moon influence the taste of wines?” Feel free to follow the thread and add your thoughts using #LunaTasteTest and find us @The_Month and @Avondale.

Visit www.avondale.co.za for more information.