The Editor spends some time getting to know Simonsig's Johan Malan and his wines... | The Month July 2012

I make no secret of my fondness of Simonsig – and it’s been a favourite of mine ever since I sat down to my first tasting there some years back and quickly realised that my plan to “taste everything decent” under the Simonsig label was going to take more than a single sitting, and possibly require a second liver.

As I stop by the estate each month to deliver copies of The Month and chat to the familiar faces that are as much of an institution as the farm is, I’m assured of two things: the first is that I’ll need to turn down the offer of a glass of Kaapse Vonkel (they’re stop number three on my list and The Month promotes responsible drinking, you see…) and the second is that I’ll be re-impressed by the close-knit Simonsig team of unassuming, but undeniably knowledgeable, people. 

I was reminded of both the value of the team and the nature of its members recently as I sat with Simonsig’s cellar master, Johan Malan, one of the sons of the legendary South African wine personality and creator of South Africa’s first Methode Cap Classique, Frans Malan. The Malans trace their ancestry back to the French Huguenot, Jacques Malan, who arrived in the Cape in the late 1600s and today their
Stellenbosch estate is planted to more than 200 hectares and Simonsig wines are sold in more than 40 countries.

Having missed an earlier tasting with a number of local winos, I was pleased to have the chance to bend Johan’s ear as we sat across a table groaning under an older and a current vintage each, of five of Simonsig’s flagship reds, and a little bubbly to start and end things off with*.
As the first of the wines, the Redhill Pinotage, was poured, Johan began to recount some of his experiences on a recent trip to France. Ever the innovator, Johan pulled out his iPhone and instead of showing me the expected happy snaps, pressed ‘play’ and had me engrossed in his personal video summary of a particularly memorable tasting, featuring some very old French wines and a candid commentary of his thoughts on the night.

Johan has been responsible for 29 of Simonsig’s vintages, so he’s no mug when it comes to his craft, yet it was clear that his visit had been informative and had given him pause for thought.  As he recounted his experiences there and spoke of the value of some of the relationships formed and strengthened, I could see him thinking way ahead of the 2012 vintage, and the rest of the pack.

But Johan’s a team player, and while there will certainly be a couple of unique applications of what he gleaned, it’s the wine-making and drinking community at large that will benefit as he freely shares his thoughts and expertise; and it’s that attitude that strikes me as pervasive at Simonsig. From the friendly greeting you’ll receive as you walk into the tasting room to the attentive service you’re likely to enjoy in the on-site restaurant, Cuvee, you’ll be in the hands of a team whose members seem to be able to cover for each other as effectively as a Stormers pack in defence, but with a lot less obvious effort.

Having given it time to breathe, we turned our attention to the Redhill Pinotage and I learnt that the 2008 was aged for 16 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels, with 70% of them new. The result is a surprisingly accessible wine that shows a lot of fruit and a sweetness that makes it a great bet if you’re heading away from the ‘Coffee Pinotage’ genre but not quite ready to have your mouth turned inside out by the heavy tannins that some younger Pinotages display.  Commenting on the sweet mid-palate Johan noted that this is what Pinotage is all about and that it’s a characteristic that he’s careful to protect and display, whether in varietal form or in a blend.

The 2006 was crafted in much the same way – but the barrels were all new. The wine seems more  austere than its younger sibling but carries the same fruity thread and, while I would probably not pull out a bottle for the Super 15 final next month, I dare say that even my beer-swilling mates would recognise the older vintage as special given the added depth aging brings to it.

As we worked our way systematically through the remaining eight wines I was given to distraction as the older vintages consistently displayed an elegance and maturity that made me realise that despite drinking a lot of different wines, I’d be well-advised to narrow my focus and try more vintages to take full advantage of what wine has to offer.

I suggested to Johan that there’s a gap in the market for older vintages, particularly of more popular or common reds, and that a little education and exposure by way of a comparative tasting, say, would add value to the experience of enjoying good wine.

He agreed but explained that the exposure step is always going to be tricky from a business perspective – most local palates are schooled on current vintages and as a result many wines have been crafted to be consumed earlier, rather than cellared. Where wine producers do set stock aside for aging and future sales, as Simonsig does, there’s a risk that the market for the wine will be relatively small or that the wine will be different enough when older to distract those used to younger wines. Johan is particularly passionate about the aging potential of Pinotage and the Simonsig flagships and as he explained some of the subtle changes he’s picked up in other and far older vintages than those we were enjoying, I made a note to visit the Simonsig tasting room Vinoteque in the interests of doing a thorough job for The Month.

In the meantime though I’ll continue to work my way through the more readily available Simonsig vintages with pleasure and rework my schedule to ensure that Johan’s team are the last on my paper round come delivery day. 

Wine Reviews:
Redhill Pinotage 2008
The sweet mid-palate of this Pinotage is characteristic of the approach of wine maker Johan Malan and berries and spice are immediately discernable. The wine has a rich mouthfeel, thanks to 16 months in French and American Oak barrels (and 14.7% alc). The tannins are soft and integrated, but none-the-less discernable, and give the wine a great finish.

Redhill Pinotage 2006
This got 5 Stars in Platter's 2009 guide and with a few years on it, I'll guess that the tasters back then will be giving themselves a pack on the back for getting it so right! The beautiful colour is still rich and dark whilst the sweet berry flavours gave me no hint of the wine's age. What is remarkable is the voluptuosness of the wine on the tongue and the length of the finish. I can imagine this going with any decent cut of red meat but would happily skip any meal in favour of this wine. 14.8% alc and 100% new oak (French and American) at the time make for a well-balanced wine and a very pleasing experience.

Frans Malan Reserve 2008
beautiful deep red in clour with dark berries and that distictive Simonsig Pinotage mid-palate sweetness. 73% Pinotage, 22% Cab Sauv and 5% Merlot gives the wine good depth andmake for interesting development in the glass as the wine changes temperature (serve a couple of degrees cooler than normal to start with and the exercise is sure to be rather fun). There's a bit of pencil shaving on the nose and a definite violet whiff courtesy of the Merlot. This is a lovely, accesible Cape Blend that shows off the Pinotage, but shows due respect for the Cab Sauv and Merlot. Great on its own but perfectly suited to a rich Sunday roast.


Frans Malan Reserve 2004
This is still a Pinotage dominated Cape Blend (65% Pinotage/31% Cab Sauv/4% Merlot) but the Cab Sauv adds quite a bit in terms of aromas and flavour. Think plums, blackberries and oaky vanilla (58% American Oak, 42% French) a full mouthfeel and firm tannins and you're looking at a wine that more people should make a point of trying. Pair it with duck or lamb and richly flavoured sauce or gravy; and a second bottle.

Tiarra 2009
 A Bodeaux-style blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot, this wine is overtly Cab Sauv with lots of complexity and additional flavour thanks to the other components - notably the Merlot. The tannins are firm and the wine a little restrained which suggests that a little time in the cellar is in order, but be warned - it's deceptively easy to drink and loves food.



Tiarra 2005
This was my favourite on the day - the four Bordeaux varieties each add an identifiable component to the mix and the oak and tannins are subtle without being demure. Despite the age there's fruit on the palate, cigar box on the nose and a lingering finish that suggests that repeat visits to the Simonsig Vinoteque are to become commonplace.

Merindol Syrah 2008
If you like Shiraz - buy this wine. Dark fruit, spice and black pepper are complemented by the kind of mouthfeel that 19 months in 100% new French Oak brings and there's a weight to the wine that surprised given the less than 14% alc content. If you want to spoil yourself or impress, try this with game or duck.


Merindol Syrah 2003
Spice, vanilla and buchu all made an appearance in this beautifully dark and mindbogglingly complex wine. There's a definite savoury sense to the wine at first which gives way to loads of dark berry flavours and a long finish. Of all the wines, this was the most 'satisfying' and I could imagine myself pouring a single glass and savouring it slowly without the need for a follow-up. But then again, it was the 10th of 10 wines tasted!